Bilbao Spain side trips
|Gernika / Bermeo / suspension bridge||Tapas, By Any Other Name . . .|
|Pictures tell the story
here . . .
Gernika, the seat of Basque democracy long before we established it here. John Adams visited the Basque country to see how this system of government worked. This is the enshrined trunk of the original oak tree the men met under to decide and carry out the law - called Oak Law in honor of the tree.
Near the biosphere reserve of Urdaibai, excellent surfing on the Atlantic shore.
Bermeo's fishing port, just off their beautiful village square, is definitely not a tourist destination. All local bars, great food and even a sneak visit to a Men's Gastronomy Club were on the afternoon's itinerary.
Near the entrance to the harbor downriver from the Guggenheim is the Transporter Bridge. It is similar to a gondola, with the support very high so large ships can still pass. I took an elevator to the top and walked across, then came back on the "ferry" for a quarter.
Taken from the top looking upriver - Great View!
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On a recent visit to Bilbao, Spain, I found out that tapas, by any other name, still taste great! Where's Bilbao, you ask? Since the 1997 opening of the Frank Gehry designed Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao is on all the art & architecture tourism maps, but it is only recently being discovered for its food. That will change when the new harbor for cruise ships opens in March of 2006. Then Bilbao will be the immediate world's "new" destination. For now, off season, there are just surfers and a few stray "foodies" such as myself, in the heart of Basque country, on Spain's Northern coast, enjoying the best the region has to offer: good surf, great food and genial company.
Naturally, people here speak Basque, which isn't similar to Spanish, and has enough x's and z's to be Greek to me. So when I asked at the first tavern for tapas, they said pintxos (peenchos), literally meaning food on a stick. Both are bite sized snacks either on little skewers, or with a toothpick stuck in them. They come in all shapes and sizes, and are usually served on a crusty slice of bread. Eating them is the social equivalent of a buffet dinner party. You can eat them as appetizers, or make a meal of them while visiting with people around you. Either way, you're enjoying very good food!
Pintxos can be something as simple as olives with an anchovy filet, a fried sweet green pepper dipped in salt, or a single, translucent slice of Iberian ham in a small dinner roll, each with a toothpick holding it together. Some more complex varieties are a skewered fresh anchovy filet wrapped around squid, with tomatoes and watercress in an ink sauce, or a puff pastry "boat" stuffed with crab salad skewered with an upright shrimp "sail". These beautiful and elaborate creations aren't the "norm", but when bar-hopping for pintxos I found that the selection was only limited by the creativity of the cook. One thing for sure, all are made with the freshest local ingredients
A typical pintxos crowd moves from bar to bar, so if you stay in one place long enough you can meet the whole community as the waves of patrons move through the neighborhood. Eventually I got caught up in the rhythm, nodding to familiar faces as I ate and drank my way around the old section of the city. The dining is so casual that one helps oneself to the lavish spread along the bar, motioning for a glass of wine or beer to wash them down. A plate is a rarity, but napkins abound, and the custom is to drop them on the floor when you're done. The best way to settle up is by counting the toothpicks. It's all done on the honor system, holding up fingers if language is a problem. When it comes to food, language is never a problem for me! Besides, the Basque are a trusting, if somewhat stern looking bunch. I found that a smile and a kind word were always returned, and what at first seemed brusque was just the natural reticence of a warm and friendly people. They love their food as much as I did, and proudly show it off.
If you are
looking for a wonderful place to visit, with great regional food, this
cultured, but still relatively simple city is recommended. Go soon. When
Bilbao completes its transformation from the industrial center of Northern
Spain to "the" world-class destination for haute cuisine, you
can say, "I remember it when."
Guide Service: Guia turistico (Xabier Lexartza Argiarro) firstname.lastname@example.org Great Guide!
Bilbao Tourism: http://www.bilbao.net/bilbaoturismo/
Sheraton Bilbao Hotel - www.sheraton-bilbao.com off season 85 euros per night double room plus 18 euros breakfast buffet. Good food, bar and cordial service.
Guggenheim Museum www.guggehheim-bilbao.es 9 to 12 euros depending on exhibits.